Journey to the heart of black metal: Beyond the Gates in Bergen (Wednesday and Thursday)

Bergen in Norway is a legendary city with a rich history. It was the epicenter of the second wave of black metal in the 1990s. The debut albums of Mayhem, Emperor, and Enslaved were recorded at the Grieghallen Studio by Eirik “Pytten” Hundvin. It also was the cradle of Immortal and Gorgoroth. And who could forget the burning of the Fantoft stave church (stavkirke)? Bergen’s role in the history of black metal has been crucial in shaping the genre as we know it today. It is, therefore, essential to celebrate and preserve this legacy. The role of the Beyond the Gates festival is vital in this regard.

Organized by Silje Wergeland (currently the lead singer of The Gathering) and Torgrim Øyre (former tour manager of Behemoth), Beyond the Gates has been offering solace to fans of the extreme genre since 2013. Fans from all over the world, as more than half of the attendees come from abroad. Just like me! For four days, I will immerse myself in all that is trve and kvlt that Bergen has to offer. The lineup for this edition is absolutely to make your mouth water. I’m driving all the way to Norway, planning to extend my trip into a full vacation, but you could just as easily make it a city break by flying. Whether it’s worth it, you’ll read in this report.

Also, check out the report from Friday!
And here’s the report from Saturday!

Of course, on our way from Stavanger to Bergen, we stop at the rebuilt Fantoft stave church. On June 6, 1992, it was set on fire by Varg Vikernes. The Lysekloster ruins offer another black metal attraction. Here, the rather hilarious clip for Immortal‘s Call of the Wintermoon was filmed. Time for a photo shoot! In the evening, I pick up my festival wristband in Bergen so I won’t have to stand in line the next day. A good start is half the battle.

Before the first performance kicks off, I take a walk in the full sun to one of the seven mountains that surround Bergen. What a luxury it is to do this right from your hotel in the city center! The view from Løvstakken is stunning, and on the way back, I not only score the latest LP of Vredehammer at the record store/bar Apollon, but I also enjoy a delicious coffee at a trendy café where the music of Dødheimsgard and Satyricon blasts from the speakers. Bergen is more than ready!

In a former sardine factory (now renamed USF Verftet), Beyond the Gates found the venue for the first two days. It’s here that the Norwegian black metal titan Whoredom Rife has the honor of kicking off with Curse of the Moon. For me, and many others, this is the perfect way to kick off the festival. Super tight, simply excellent. The only downside? The set could have been longer!

I don’t get that feeling with the next act, Mānbryne from Poland. Although I was really looking forward to this (their last album Interregnum: O próbie wiary i jarzmie zwatpienia made it into my year-end list), the show is quite disappointing. What a kitschy stage presentation! It’s like watching the Polish equivalent of Cult of Fire. This just isn’t for me. Time to get some wine. I’ll stick to the studio albums!

Although Watain also went for a shopping spree at Xenos for their stage outfit, this performance is absolutely up my alley. I’ve never seen a bad show from these Swedes. The concert was announced with bloody posters reading “Watain are coming” all around the city. The setlist, to my great delight, heavily draws from the album Lawless Darkness. And yes, soon a pig’s head is hurled into the crowd. Not very halal, but definitely kvlt. And that’s why we’re here! Devil’s Blood is always a highlight, partly because of the special friendship Erik Danielsson had with the passed away Selim Lemouchi. The final track and neck-breaker Malfeitor is introduced by Erik with a wish to end on a positive note. Very important, of course. And with that, a perfect show comes to an end. Flawless Darkness!

This year, national pride Mayhem blows out forty candles and celebrates it with a special show. Counting down to the start of their infamous career, we first get Malum from Daemon. Each album is introduced with a short video montage. Well done! And so you work towards a climax. Because, to be honest, the older the record, the better. Only with the album De Mysteriis Dom Sathanas, including a memorial for Dead and Euronymous, the crowd really goes wild. During Freezing Moon, essentially the Norwegian national anthem, countless hands with invisible oranges are raised in the air. Of course, I join in as well. For the last three songs, all from Deathcrush, former drummer Manheim and singer Messiah take the stage. Cute and at the same time remarkable to see them still ‘capitalizing’ on a brief period from their teenage years so many years later. But as I mentioned earlier, we must cherish that history.

Embarrassed, I must confess that I missed the very first concert of Trelldom ever. Three days of traveling have taken their toll. A dearly paid toll. From those who did successfully battle their fatigue, I understand the next day that it was epic. Gaahl sang beautifully, and there was a saxophone. As if my FOMO wasn’t already sufficiently fueled…

Day two, blessed with beautiful weather, starts once again with a hike up one of the mountains. A special cable railway takes you to Mount Fløyen in just a few minutes. Up here, it’s pure enjoyment of stunning views and pristine nature. While my fiancé continues all the way to Mount Ulriken, I return in time for the Women in Metal meeting. Before a gin and whisky tasting, hosted by a female entrepreneur, there is a panel discussion. Led by Silje Wergeland, a number of prominent figures exchange experiences and tips on working as a woman in the highly competitive industry.

On the second and final day at USF Verftet, the former sardine factory hosts performances by Cult of Fire, Venom, Darkspace, Behemoth, and Death SS. Very selectively, I only choose Behemoth from this lineup, as I’ve already seen most of the other acts live last year and want to conserve energy for the upcoming two days in the legendary Grieghallen. And it’s safe to say that I’ve been a fangirl of Behemoth from the first introduction to this Polish band. It’s thanks to this band as well Satyricon that I got into our scene at the age of thirteen. And I join those who believe that The Satanist was their pinnacle. So, we start off slowly with Once Upon A Pale Horse. Ora Pro Nobis Lucifer wakes things up, and I quickly reach the ultimate with the following Conquer All, my anthem. My vocal cords certainly felt it. A detour to Evangelion with Ov Fire And The Void is never a punishment. The joy of playing radiates from the stage, with a proud Nergal. Unfortunately, we have to miss drummer Inferno due to health issues, but Jon Rice (Uncle Acid and the Dead Beats) proves himself more than competent.

We go back in time with Cursed Angel of Doom, which Nergal wrote in his early twenties. Things get intense again with Christians To The Lions and Demigod (though it’s a shame we miss Slaves Shall Serve from this brilliant album tonight). The neck muscles get a bit of a rest during Blow Your Trumpets Gabriel and Bartzabel (boring, time to get some wine). The triptych that Behemoth ends with is, however, classic enjoyment. Finally, Zos Kia Cultus comes around the corner with No Sympathy For Fools! Yes! And of course, we know exactly what to do with our hands during Chant for Ezkaton. Hail Satan! While a large part of the crowd already leaves the main hall, I stay with high expectations, waiting for O Father O Satan O Sun. After all, their festival tour is called O Father O Satan O Svmmer for a reason. Of course, they come back for this encore. Is this not the best song ever written? A black confetti cannon completes the celebration.


After Nergal extensively thanks the ecstatic audience and the organization of Beyond the Gates, he kisses the Norwegian flag printed with the Behemoth logo. The men leave the stage triumphantly, and rightly so. It’s truly incredible with what genuine passion and energy they bring their show. We’ll do it all over again next year with The Unholy Trinity Tour. They will bring none other than Satyricon and Rotting Christ along. Already epic!

Also, check out the report from Friday!
And here’s the report from Saturday!

Date and location

31 juli 2024, USF Verftet, Bergen, Noorwegen

Photos:

Jarle H. Moe / Beyond the Gates Festival

Link: